Now I place the mount down onto the tape while taking note of the spacing around the chip gaged earlier as this must be precise. Any variation and the chip won't make contact. This is where you can see the spacers effect. Essentially, I'm using the spacers to move the chip down along the inner wall of the mount. If the chip is too close to the camera pins, there is a chance the pins will hit the ramp too low and damage themselves. Too high and they won't make contact.

This is a photo log of just one of my Minolta f/1.2 conversions. The photos are in the same order as my build. Please read each photos caption for details of that step.

To find out more about the custom machined AF mount: http://www.pbase.com/pganzel/modification_of__58mm_f12_rokkor

Gallery pages: < 1 2

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Shao Zhang > Now I place the chip, spacers down onto the tape which is sticky side up.

Shao Zhang > Now I place the mount down onto the tape while taking note of the spacing around the chip gaged earlier as this must be precise. Any variation and the chip won't make contact. This is where you can see the spacers effect. Essentially, I'm using the spacers to move the chip down along the inner wall of the mount. If the chip is too close to the camera pins, there is a chance the pins will hit the ramp too low and damage themselves. Too high and they won't make contact.

Shao Zhang > View from above. This is when you must make sure the chip is as flush as possible to the mount. You don't want too much space there.

Shao Zhang > Here we has some regular epoxy ready to be mixed.

Shao Zhang > Mixed epoxy on a piece of tape. This makes cleanup easy, just throw the tape away.

Shao Zhang > Here I have 2 pieces of semi-hard rubber cut to about the size of each side of the chip. I apply a moderate amount of epoxy to the back of the rubber as well as the bottom of the chip where they touch. It's ok to get epoxy on the chip IC.

Shao Zhang > After only a few minutes, the epoxy will be semi-soft but not runny. This all depends on your epoxy but I would recommend you get one that is slower and not super fast curing. While the epoxy is semi-soft but not runny, remove the tape and scrape away any excess epoxy that you don't want. It will be easy to remove now so do it while you can before it fully cures.

Shao Zhang > When the mount-chip assembly is semi-hardened, you can mount it to the lens and test if the alignment is good. If its not good, you can remove the chip while the epoxy is still a little soft and start over. Don't make the mistake of checking alignment when its fully cured as its very hard to remove.

Now I place the mount down onto the tape while taking note of the spacing around the chip gaged earlier as this must be precise. Any variation and the chip won't make contact. This is where you can see the spacers effect. Essentially, I'm using the spacers to move the chip down along the inner wall of the mount. If the chip is too close to the camera pins, there is a chance the pins will hit the ramp too low and damage themselves. Too high and they won't make contact.